Month: April 2007

  • Weekend in Niamey

    I had a chaotic week at work. My visa needs renewing and my evaluation is due. The school board meeting was on Wednesday night and I’m responsible for writing a report to the ambassador. Amina was getting ready for her nursing conference in Vienna and we had a large herd of patients.

    Friday after work, I had to go over to the American International School where I was one of the judges for the science fair. I was astonished to find such elaborate presentations on complex subjects utilizing the scientific method. The students presented their projects and were very enthusiastic and prepared. They talked about what motivated them to start their research. They sited their refrences and resources. They stated their hypothesis and talked about their data collection and possible variables which might alter the results. Their findings were impressive and all deserved an award. The topics I judged were on photosynthesis, lasting flavor of sugarless vs sugared chewing gum, bottle rockets, and comparison of how time is perceived when compared to males and females. The last one won first place. 

    Later that night, I took the kids to the open house where all the students were displaying their projects to their families and there was an awards ceremony and Italian dinner. Dina stayed home to get some much needed time alone.

    Saturday we had some friends over and made a nice BBQ. It was my fist attempt without my cook. The charcoal here is quite small and burns very fast. But it turned out great and the kids played and swam until dusk.

    Filet_soy_vay

    Yesterday, Dina arranged for us to pick up several kids from the orphanage and bring them home for lunch and play. It was a rich experience. One of the girls is deaf but such a joy. Her facial expressions and movements are so graceful. She smiles and points. We signed some with her and she seems to know quite a bit of sign language.  The boys wanted to touch everything. One kept puting in a CD and ejecting it, then playing it at different volumes with the remote until I had to ask him to stop. They played muscial instruments and ate Raisin Bran and chocolates after a big pasta lunch. They ate ravenously and asked for more. Taking them back was hard. Part of it is the emotional feelings but also the beauty of these kids. They are so alive; expressive and loving. I was afraid that I would be depressed but I found a feeling of hope. That these children get fed, washed, clothed, sheltered, and most importantly, educated is more than most of the other children their age here in Niger.

  • more kids on my street Friday

    Enfants_rue_desamirou

    You met the one little girl the other day, she had a pot on her head. Her name is Amiata.

    Way in the background, by the car, right in front of our house, in an orange shirt, watching me taking pictures and waiting to give me cash and the car key for my errand to the drinks store for a case of mineral water, half a case of Biere Niger and half a case of pineapple soda, you can see Le Patron–everyone calls him that and it CRACKS me up, and it cracks him up that they call ME Madame le Doctor, I mean, what a promotion I got–Peter.

    Air France tickets on sale. For example, if you want to fly from Seattle to Niger, only $1500 round trip, in September, just in time for the Cure Sale. All US points of departure are on sale, but they are going fast, so look now.

  • Les Grèves

    Yesterday Jennifer and I visited the French gym, a really nice facility opened and now languishing since the Francophonie games held here in 2005. As we were backing out in our car the guy working at the gym said, “Don’t go out in your car tomorrow, they’ll be looking for cars like that to throw rocks at.”

    The teacher-student strikes are in full swing. Zuri said people were walking down the street this morning with sticks. “Don’t do sports this morning,” she told me, which is how she refers to my little jaunts to the stadium. Tires are burning in the streets. Jennifer is trapped up on campus at the University. One side has declared that whatever happens is the other side’s fault for taking so long to come to an agreement.

    But it’s calm in the house, the kids are on vacation, so there is no drop-off, pick-up–Camille is writing an animal story on the laptop, Zuri’s braiding doll hair, Stefan is having the gardener blow up a yoga ball. Peter went to work early and has to stay late for a meeting, until after dark when things are calmed down. So we’ll sit behind our walls and hope they get things resolved and wait out the rock throwing. It’s too hot to protest past much past noon anyway.

    You can read a newspaper article about the strikes here.

  • Once and Future Books

    I placed an order with Powell’s Books last Wednesday. On Friday the books left the warehouse and are speeding towards me. I’ll tell you when they get here, just so you can see what it’s like. I’m dying for:

    Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs a Dover book
    Rosie’s Walk, a picture book for Stefan
    30 Heirloom Projects with Complete How-To-Knit Instructions by Melanie Falick, I love, love, love her Weekend Knitting, in spite of it’s problems,I can’t wait to lay my hands on this.
    Around the Year by Elsa Beskow, can’t believe we don’t already have this, and they had a used copy!
    Special Topics in Calamity Physics by Marisha Pessl. Anybody read this?
    The King in the Window by Adam Gopnik, recommended to Camille by the charming 12-year-old Dev, who we met in Rome. It’s about an American boy living in France, and written by the guy who wrote the delightful Paris to the Moon.

    PinocchioI picked up a copy of Pinocchio in Rome (but the book’s in English, c’mon) and started reading it aloud to kids while we were there. It’s great to read a book about a naughty, naughty marrionette, who then feels bad, only to be terribly naughty again. Stefan loves hearing about someone who is so badly behaved. “Read another chapter,” he says. All the chapters are really short, and have spoilers as chapter headings: “Pinocchio weeps upon learning that the Lovely Maiden with Azure Hair is dead. He meets a Pigeon, who carries him to the seashore. He throws himself into the sea to go to the aid of his father.” As Pinocchio says, “Mamma mia.”

  • Gifts from a far

    We got comfortable with our life here in Niger. The things we missed were kind of stored away somewhere to keep ourselves from craving and obsessing. And periodically, between net-grocer shipments, we think of something we should order but it often gets forgotten before the next order is placed.

    Rome was kind of a tug back in the sense that there were all those stimulating visuals and tastes. Gelato twice a day! Candy stores and pasta shops. Is that bacon cooking that I smell? I couldn’t finish my pizza and salad and had to ask for a box to take it back to the hotel to savor later. “You’re not Italian,” remarked the waiter.

    Coming back to Niamey was different. We still love it but oh how I miss that coffee! There certainly is a difference between a plate of Italian cookies vs a Nigerien wheel barrel mound full of green and red peppers. Both can be stimulating and overwhelm the senses. But I think you tend to miss the ones you can’t get.

    So it pleased me to the bone when I received my birthday care package from my loving family on Wednesday. I thought perhaps I might get a book or a CD (they know me well). But this delighted us all like Christmas! There were chocolates, dried fruits, boullion, organic pastas, cookies, and easter candies. There were two CD’s and not just a book, but books; some for the kids and 6 for me! We hadn’t expected these suppressed stimulants for at least another 2-3 months.

  • Scarlett and Steve, ’90 and ’89

    Hokies

    Can you imagine Peter and I hopping out of the car ready to have our giraffe picture taken with our Humboldt flag? Do we even have Humboldt flag? I am proud of my alma mater and happy that I went there, but I fell over laughing when these guys wanted me to take this picture last fall. Scarlett thought my business cards were maroon and orange because I’m a Hokies fan. I had to apologize for being a west-coaster, until I met these two, I was so out of it that I didn’t even know Virginia Tech existed, and in such a big way.

    I’m sorry now because everyone has heard of Virginia Tech, including the French parents at Camille and Stefan’s school who are expressing their condolences to me. And to all of us gun-toting Americans.

    If Steve and Scarlett are an example of the kind of person who comes out of VT, we just lost 32 intelligent, patriotic, honorable, fabulous human beings.

    Their other beautiful daughter has seen the giraffes so many times she stayed in the car to read a book. “We love you, even though you won’t get out of the car!” shouted Scarlett as I snapped the photo.

  • tree knows it’s spring

    Africa_blooms_3

    This tree lost all it’s leaves and now it’s come up with these flowers that look like lilies. I just love the way the bouganvilla has joined the party. When I starting taking pictures, all the little neighborhood kids ran up and wanted their picture taken.

    Kids

    Then I went to look at fabrics at the neighborhood of fabric stores, just a research trip. If you don’t like thrift stores, you may not like shopping here, it’s sort of a hunters paradise. I found lots of great gingham, but no dotted swiss, which I am dying for, or some kind embroidered white on white. When I tried to leave, a taxi had blocked my car from behind and I couldn’t move. Two guys came up, opened the taxi door, put the car in neutral and pushed the taxi out of the way for me. We all laughed. I hope it was okay, these situations make me feel a little weird, even though we had a good laugh over the whole thing, and they didn’t seem to expect anything, but I gave them a dollar.

  • bespoke

    Amina took me to her tailor’s shop today. The place has no name, unless it’s the only thing painted on the side of the small storage unit-like building: Overt 9:30-12:30.

    James, of Four Kinds of Hot, says one of the many difficult adjustments to Niamey is that when you see a store here, it just doesn’t click that what you are looking at is a store. My early, reptilian mind looks for the clues that tell me, “I can buy something there.” Clues like signage, a parking lot, a door; and not seeing any of these things my developed-world early brain decides there is nothing to buy and moves on.

    You know it’s a tailor because there are two guys sitting in a the small space, each at a beautifully old-fashioned treadle sewing machine. One guy has an electric Singer sitting on the same small table as the foot-powered one, almost on top of the other machine, if you could put one sewing machine on top of another. One guy is sewing beads onto a child’s tie-dyed shirt–huh? on these machines I think they should only be sewing clothes appropriate for Beatrix Potter– and another guy is doing a very nice job on a man’s dress shirt.

    I bought a ton of this great, almost vintage, probably vintage, brown gingham from the Netherlands at Big Boss–you know the owner is French because she waves you in the direction of what you are looking for with a hand trailing the smoke from her cigarette. Her place has a sign, a parking lot and a door, so I know it’s a store, by the way. So I gave the tailor the fabric and a shirt of Stefan’s to use as a pattern. Stefan is going to smell like he like smokes Marlboro lights.

    I haven’t gotten my Boden dress yet because they sent it to my pouch street address here, with all the city information for Portland. So I took some white with red dots fabric I got at the Grand Marche for like $3–I mean I bought yards and yards of it for $3, but I think everything should be either white with red dots or brown gingham right now, don’t you?–and the picture of the dress from the website. The guy took three measurements, told me this would all be roughly $12, and to come back next Wednesday. I can’t wait. I asked him if he could do the embroidery shown in the photo and he said yes, he has the right machine and he patted the treadle Singer.

  • easter egg hunt

    Hunters

    Easter_

    And don’t you love it that in a country that is 98% muslim, Easter Monday is a national holiday?