Category: Uncategorized
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kulich
Snow flurries this morning, it's not sticking, but still. Surprisingly good kulich from the nearby grocery. It was warm when Peter bought it. -
Xpuctoc Bockpece – christ has risen
We went to our friend Aleen's for dinner. Her apartment is about 250 feet away. The evening was shared with another couple and we had some nice zakuski (appetizers) and dinner. Dina took Stefan home to bed and Aleen and I went right outside across the street from the embassy compound to a small orthodox church. Here in Moscow there are churches with onion domes on practically every other block.The church was packed full of people; the women with their heads covered, many of the men with beards, and old Russian babushkas clutching their candles, bowing, and crossing themselves.Once inside, I felt something stir in me that has been there since my youth. An old connection that sometimes gets forgotten but is easily awakened by the first few notes from the choir and the scent of burning candles and incense. The sea of people blur. There is some gentle pushing and shoving as the priest recites the old traditions of our ancestors. There is christ nailed to the cross. The choir singers raise their voices and the icons shimmer in glowing candle light. The words come back to me and I am singing too.I turn to my right and see the face of a beautiful young Russian woman. She is looking down and I follow her glance down her long slender arms down to an angelic face cradled in her hands. It is a Down's Syndrome child. She has a white scarf around her face like the Russian Alyonka chocolate bar baby only with dark almond shaped eyes and a white scarf. They keep staring at each other and I am moved. Moved by the love and the unknown struggles she must bear.The man in front of me turns towards me and leans a burning candle in my direction. I ignite mine from his flame and turn to light the woman's next to her child. The bells start to ring and there is increased movement as people begin to move out of the church. The priest leads the recession swinging his incense and holding his cross. The choir follows singing a hymn I know as well as any nursery rhyme. The air is cold out but we huddle together and follow the priest as the church bells change from a solitary ring, to a continuous none stop clanging. He led us once around the church and then back to the front door. "Christ has risen!" he shouted. "Indeed he has risen!" we all reply. People start to kiss each other three times on each cheek.As Aleen and I walked back towards the embassy I think back upon the generations and hundreds of years that this tradition has maintained itself. Thousands of years and 70 years of suppression could not crush faith.Xpuctocb Bockpece! Happy Easter! -
moscow in your pocket
If you are thinking of coming to visit us in Moscow, or just want to visit virtually, I use this locally produced publication all the time:http://moscow.inyourpocket.com/ I also like expat.ru and http://www.moscowtimes.ruBeware that I am:1. Playing Joan Osborn's One of Us on the guitar all the time. Bring earplugs.2. Asking for editing help every two minutes. Got an idea for Earthday?3. Angsting that David Cook hasn't scheduled any shows on the West Coast for July or August.4. Buying wine by the case.5. Seriously considering watching Eurovision.6. Wondering if I should be worried that Camille likes to read in a closet with a flashlight.7. Looking forward to the lighthearted vibe of Budapest. -
trippy
Eight fifteen pm and not dark yet. Everyone is starting to act manic with so much light. The Moscow sun takes forever to go down. In Niger we'd go out to the sand dunes to watch the sunset, and we'd have to race to our cars as soon at the sun set; so close to the equator, it was like a door closing, the sun went down and that instant, it was DARK. In Niger, the sun rose and set every day of the year between 6 and 7, even in December the kids went to school in the morning in shorts with the sun in the sky. So out at the sand dunes we'd run, no street lights or ambient light to find the cars or to prevent you from driving off the cliffs off the dunes. Here, it's night time, but light, and the spring twilight is lasting FOREVER. Kind of freaking me out.
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so many well behaved dogs
It seemed like every day I grew to love Budapest more and more. What's not to love really? The architecture is beautiful, the people are nice and for the most part friendly, and the food and restaurants are quite good and relatively inexpensive. AND, they have the most polite dogs I've ever seen.Every day I would encounter more dog walkers than I have ever noticed before. All kinds of breeds from shepards to terriers, mutts, French bulldogs and Bichon Fris. All well behaved on and off leash. I think when a vast majority of dogs are well trained and good citizens, it says a lot about its people. The Hungarians obviously love dogs.One of the reasons I've noted this is because I have been thinking for quite some time now of getting a dog. I've held off because of the responsibilities which I know are numerous and taking into consideration our life in the Foreign Service; traveling around the world and being able to spend the necessary time and not neglect it.I suppose my dog from childhood (a border collie) brings back memories of an understanding family member. There were a few other dogs friends had had and who could forget Pablo, my cousin's dog?Several years ago, I was in SF and I saw a man walk up to a Peet's Coffee on Fillmore street and tell his small dog to sit while he went inside. I watched the dog and it charmed me. When he came out, I asked him what breed it was assuming it was a poodle. It turned out to be a Portuguese Water Dog. I have seen at least 5 of them since and have always been impressed by their intelligence, affection, and personalities. I've been contemplating and even in touch with a few breeders. The fact that President Obama is seriously thinking of getting one will no doubt make them all the more popular. Part of me really wants one and then I think perhaps we should just get a mutt. In any case, may it be as well behaved as the dogs in Hungary. -
relish in the sun
My metro ride in this morning was full of school age kids holding hands. Their backpacks almost too big for them. A teenage boy gave up his seat when a pregnant woman got on. These are sights which make one proud to be a member of the human race.
Coming out of the metro tunnel, the sun was shining and all the old buildings with their statues and columns were golden. I stopped to have a coffee and pastry (no cholesterol check for the next few days).
I saw a few patients and did some follow-ups from the day before; looking at lab results and calling folks to see how they are doing. For lunch I met a colleague who took me to a Mexican restaurant. I never expected to have a burrito in Europe but here we are, looking out over a park, talking shop and eating salsa while the waiter shouts out our order in Hungarian to the cook.
This afternoon was a going away reseption to the Ambassador. She was appointed by President Bush and asked to stay on a bit longer by President Obama. They showed a side presentation of her many accomplishments. Speeches were made and I got to shake her hand, the visiting FSHP from Moscow. She thanked me for my service and I wished her well. Deserts and Hungarian champagne were served.
It is still warm out and seemingly spring. Time for a walk!
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budapesht as the russians say
I'm in Hungary and it's raining and the city is old and I'm loving it. Not much to say about the Aeroflop flight. It was much better than the stories I had heard from my mother in the 60's or even 10 years ago when Tanya's uncle told me the pilots are always over an hour late so that they get sped along without blood alcohol checks. But if I didn't have a drop of that countries blood in my stream, I'd say the food was terrible. Gellatinous coldcuts with huge chunks of fat and a hard boiled egg served with a sliver of rye bread and butter. Mmm! Desert was a 4 X 4 chocolate stale black forest tort. Thank God for the beverage cart.
It's been rainy off and on here but I did manage to get out and walk quite a bit. It's a beautiful city although many of the buildings look in need or repair. My housing is in an old 1810 building up on a hill overlooking the city. It's not centrally located and quite a walk from the embassy and the clinic but only a short ride on the metro. But when you're walking down old streets, smelling goulash, and looking over the castles at the Danube who cares?
But the language here is insane! It doesn't sound like anything familiar. Sort of reminds me of how we felt in Greece. No cognates. I got in the cab at the airport and showed the two addresses I needed; one to pick up the key and the other where I am staying. That conversation took about 5 minutes and I was about to get out of the car when he figured it out. Between the two of us, we tried speaking Hungarian, English, Russian, Spanish, French, and German!
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i touched ray davie’s guitar strings
We finally got off the embassy compound today for the first time since we've been back from St. Pete's, I think. It's like living in a minimum security prison and I forget that I can leave–I don't know what it is! It's so easy to just stay on the ship.We visited the Novodivichy Convent, really a fortified village for the Tsar's sisters–another world heritage site to check off the list! A fresh dusting of snow made the place absolutely enchanting, and slippery.Then we went to lunch at the most contrast-y place possible, Hard Rock Cafe Moscow. Peter sat right under Paula Abdul's tassels.More pictures of the day at the convent at flickr.