• new years slip

    The strangest thing happened to me on January 1st, 2011. We were out with my sister Helen walking the Kremlin and Red Square and on the way back, we wandered  through the old Arbat, in the light snow and over spots of ice.

    We stopped at a grocery store and bought some bread and desert to add to our dinner. The sidewalk was slushy sloped down to the street, as though for wheelchair access (though I've never saw anyone in a wheelchair in Russia). My hands were carrying the bags and all of a sudden, my feet slipped out from under me and before I could try and even break my fall, I landed on my tailbone. 

    I could see the heavey Nikon I had around my neck come right at me as though it were taking my picture. It bounced off my brow and landed up above my head, choking me by the strap. I lay there trying to figure out what was hapening in my lower back.

    Helen asked me if I was all right and a young man came up and offered to help me up. "Just a second! Just a second!" I begged. "I need a few minutes to assess myself." My legs seemed to move fine and the pain that was in my low back seemed to be subsiding. The man again was coaxing me to stand up, assuring me it would be fine. "Alright then" I said, and he muscled me up to a standing position. 

    Upright, my low back was sending strange signals. Definitely pain but with a strange added pressure, kind of a displacement, like the tingling when your foot falls alseep. My head was starting to swim and I felt swirly. I leaned forward and put my hands on my bent knees. "I don't feel so good. I think I'm going to pass out." And that is the last thing I remember. According to Helen, I fell from a leaning forward position strait down onto my face. A brief out of body experience, kind of warm and fuzzy ("And oh what a feeling when your soul goes through the cieling"). The next thing I knew, I could hear voices but I was completely disoriented.

    Helen and a passerby were holding me and the ice below me felt good on my now throbbing butt. A militia man was talking on a radio and a stranger was running up with a chair (it turned out to be a parking attendant). They sat me up and I tried my best to compose myself. An ambulance was called and I was already trying to imagine myself walking back to the Embassy (about 3 blocks away). The kind woman who stopped to help was from the British Embassy and she was trying to convince me to walk with her to her Embassy, also fairly close by. I tried to request that the militia man cancel the ambulance but he said it was already on the way and that I should wait. I could always refuse once they checked me out. So I resigned myself to that. In truth, I really didn't feel so great and nausea was already coming on.

    The ambulance arrived rather quickly with their flashing blue lights. A medical attendant approached me and asked me some questions. I explained what happened and that I did not hit my head. Silly I know, coming from someone who has blood dripping from his brow. He invited me into his ambulance and I complied. It was smoke filled. He did a mini neuro exam and I got him to chuckle. I eventually revealed that I was the healh provider from the American Embassy. 

    He suggested I be taken to a hospital for evaluation. I declined, not wanting that experience. I told him I just needed to get home to the Embassy and he said he waould take us there. There were no seatbelts in the ambulance. He cleaned up my eye while they drove us home, no gloves or sterile dressings. I expected a request for payment but it cost me nothing. They dropped us off at the main gate, 200 feet from my apartment. 

    I walked supported on Helen's arm. My low back seemed okay but my buttocks felt as though something was trying to cut through from the inside out. I made it to the couch and lay down. Nausea overcame me. Nothing sounded good to eat or drink. I lay there rather helplessly. Eventually I fell asleep and have been sore for the past couple of days. But the nausea went away, the pain has gotten better and the black eye swelling has gone down.

    Everytime I look in the mirror, I am reminded of the cigarette commercial from the 70's, "Taraton smokers would rather fight than switch."

  • soviet style

    One of the things I have gotten to this holiday season was to do a mini-exhibit of these vintage soviet postcards under the premise of office decoration. I made garlands and we look really popular, like we got over a hundred Christmas cards. As a bonus, it's a mini art history lesson of fifty years of amazing Soviet art. Because nothing says Christmas like a Christmas tree on the moon, the Kremlin star on the top of your ahem, New Year's tree, (there was no Christmas here, remember?) or Santa on a rocket.

    Vintage_postcards1

    Vintage_postcards3 
    Vintage_postcards2 

    Russian8 

    Russian2 
    The Ambassador's wife really enjoyed the display, since it ends up she's been collecting vintage cards at the flea market Ismailova until her hands get too cold without gloves to go through the cards. She brought me all her duplicates. I'm touched and kind of thrilled.

  • freeze

    DSC_0741
    Every day Stefan crosses a day off his homemade countdown calendar, not counting today to make Christmas seem sooner. "Today is Chirstmas Eve Eve Eve Eve," he tells me.

    The days are swirling past like snowflakes and I'm dazzled by all the sights–the lit up Urkraina hotel, the Christmas tree on the embassy compound with the Russian White House as a backdrop, the stunning dacha-in-frost sets last night at the Snowmaiden ballet. I want to knit a hat like the costume, I want to keep figuring out Jesu, Joy of Man's Desiring on the guitar, I want to listen more closely to the new Pink Martini Chirstmas album, bake merange cookies, call my mom. Appreciating Stefan's anticipation makes my time slow down to his for a second and lets me think I can maybe do all that. And still shop for stocking stuffers for Camille. 

    As much as I adored going home for Chirstmas last year, this year snuggling into Moscow's Chirstmas spectacular feels like a gift. Watching the wind roll the snow into a cloud and blow it across the windows, is like a show. Getting in the car and seeing Moscow go by through windows frosted over in a million sparkly stars and flowers, it's like an effect for a movie.

    Christmas is New Years here, and the holiday goes on for eleven days afterwards, they are just getting geared up. I still want to take photos of Red Square and see the Diaghalev window displays at GUM. I need as many Christmas Eve Eve Eve Eves as I can get.

  • how was your weekend?

    Spaso House Christmas party followed by Ikea followed by buying the prettiest fresh Christmas tree.

    Xmas_spaso_pcast

    Xmas_spaso_piano

    As a favor for me, Stefan learned to play Hark the Herald Angels Sing, which he calls, "Gloria" like the Van Morrison song. Here, he's playing the Ambassador's piano. A new lego set bribe may or may not have been involved.

    Stefan hedged his bets by telling both American Santa and Russian Santa his Christmas wishes. I feel like mine have already come through.

    Xmas_tree

  • not russian roulette

    Moscow Bingo Red

    Moscow Bingo Green

    I ripped off Amy Rupple's idea for Portland bingo and made these for these Moscow bingo cards for the holiday season for the TWIM. Not that they are holiday in any way, I just wanted to make something that would be like a present for the community. I hope my limited audience–English-speaking kids riding around in the car in Moscow–enjoy them. You have to come up with your own game pieces, Amy Rupple says, "Use gum!" Or maybe those kopek coins no one seems to want.

    I don't have to tell you to click for the full size version do I?

    Are we to Sergei Posad yet?

  • zahar

    Little family
    We load cases of flour amd cooking oil onto an old gurney. I'm on the monthly trip with the American Women's Club to help stock the Ronald McDonald House Foundation kitchen. I'm hoping the flat of sugar and tea somehow offer a tiny bit of comfort to families staying with their children while they undergo treatment at Moscow's largest cancer clinic.

    A nurses carries a 1950's-looking syringe in the air as she walks into a room. After we stock the kitchen, the AWC group distributes little gifts to the kids, juice boxes and candies and puzzles and bubbles–a playful distraction from the pain and boredom that cancer treatment looks like. A student studying in the hall, a baseball cap over his shaved head, after some prodding, shyly reads his English homework to me, "I. like. to. swim." Another teenage patient sits in the hall reading Pushkin.

    The little guy in the photo above, Zahar, had a six inch incision up the back of his head where, a month ago, they removed a brain tumor. The tumor had affected his ability to learn to walk. Like most parents with kids in this clinic, the mom left her job so she could stay in the hospital with the baby. The papa says Zahar is already taking steps now. 

    Some of the newer chemotherapy medicines these kids need aren't provided by the state and must be paid for by families themselves. Apparently, cancer cures aren't free.

    In the kitchen, a mom is cooking potatoes in oil. The families, biding their time in the clinic, have enough toys and magazines. I'm sure you are already contributing wherever you are, however you can. In the CLO office, I'm putting some money in the plastic container that goes directly to buy medicine and equipment for children at this clinic in Moscow. Let's keep it up. This month, a teeny boy in tights had brain surgery and then learned to walk.

    If you are so inclined, as one amazing commenter was, you can donate by paypal at the Nastenka website, a foundation that supports the children's oncology clinic.

  • dinner and a show

    Weekends we usually take the car out to Metro, sort of a cross between Costco and Safeway, before they started remodeling the Safeways to make them Whole Foods-esque. The sign at the door says children under age ten, nyet, but everyone brings their kids anyway. We go because they have good produce and the prices are pretty good, or maybe for the real Russian atmosphere.

    They usually have samples out, a la Costco. One time they were giving away mijiotos and champagne! Today they were giving away espressos. The pretty girl, as they always are here, working the little booth was making one tiny espresso at a time, excruciatingly slowly. Peter and I had a race to see if he made it to the front of front of the fish counter before I made it to the front of the free espresso line. He won and I skipped the espresso.

    I have never gotten out of Metro able to buy everything in my cart. I've put back sugar because I didn't take enough packages, fruit because I didn't weigh it and wine because it wasn't priced. Today they wouldn't let me buy the fancy Koushmikov tea. "It's not in the system," the clerk said. So he took my pretty canister of tea and put it back on the shelf to display it for the next person who won't be allowed to buy it.

    Then the checker made us wait ten minutes so we could watch her fight with the guy who had packaged our whole salmon.

    Checker: "Worker! You can't label this trout if it's salmon!"
    Fish counter guy: "They are the same price, I've worked here for four years and we always use the term trout and salmon interchangeably."
    Checker:  "Worker! That's like saying you and I are the same thing and you know that's not true."

    She was so mean to him. Or I dunno, maybe she was flirting with him. The $40 Christmas tree lights aren't much of a bargain, but admission to Metro is always free.
  • it’s all about atmosphere

    Half of me can't WAIT to find out where our next post is, and the other half of me is happy to mentally live in all six potential posts at once. I'll be sad no matter where we are assigned because we can't go to all of them. The other six-eighteenths of me is nostalgic about Moscow. Is there a word for the sweet nostalgia of knowing you are going to miss something while you are still doing it?

    This summer in the car Stefan and I heard John Mayer's Half of My Heart for the first time. Stefan recognized John Mayer's voice but thought he was singing about Heffalump. I misheard the words as "I can't stop loving you with half of my arms." I sort of wish I didn't know about Jennifer Aniston so I didn't have to picture John Mayer hugging her with stumps.

    Anyhoo. Where was I? Brussels? Bucharest? Oh, still in Moscow.

    I'm reading A Life in Letters, a collection of Anton Chekov's letters. He's so broke he's pawning his shoes. He's in medical school and he's writing to support his parents and his sister. He sends scathing letters to his brother in which he swears his head off. Then he drinks champagne and goes for a walk around the Kremlin. He's writing and writing and writing — he writes something like three stories a week. He goes on and on about how crucial simplicity is. Then he has to have two teeth pulled and the extraction is so painful he has a headache for four days. He writes about his hemorrhoids. It's all so immediate it's like I'm following him on Twitter. Except, of course, it's 1886.

    Today, looking for items to put in the embassy newsletter I read a review of an exhibit opening of a landscape painter and I recognized the name from the A Life in Letters. Half the letters Chekov writes are to this guy, maybe his best friend, Issak Levitan. They were both obsessed with depicting atmosphere. I have to go see this show of more than 200 of his paintings at the Tretykov Gallery.

    That kind of happenstance is what I will miss about Moscow with half of my arms.

    V_zvonMoscow News article I was reading today about Levitan and the exhibition–wish I'd written it.

  • american yoga it’s not

    Zhenya
    Zhenya, the yoga teacher, left to have a baby and I begged the gym to bring her back. I finally showed up today, more than a week later. Then, I had to borrow a mat, and then I walked out of today's class to go look for a hair tie, but I'm totally into it.

    The classes I went to this summer, in Davis and in Santa Cruz, shocked me. The teachers are so nice. In Santa Cruz, I walked in on a class during the quiet rest at the end, and no one yelled at me. I came to class late and the teacher ran over asking "Are there any positions you don't like to do?" and "I like your ring!" At the end of class, she sang us awake. I was disappointed that after class she didn't pass out cookies. It felt like pre-school for grown-ups.

    Zhenya has a different approach. She was obviously previously a professional dancer or maybe a juniors champion gymnast. She lifts her chest so beautifully, she turns on her hands as easily as her feet. She positions her little arms like a ballerina. She does things with her hips and joints that I can't even describe, but it's worth going to class just for the sexy and athletic show she puts on. She's sort a one-woman no-frills cirque de soliel. But mean.

    Her warm up excercises are fast, turning your arms inside out, outside in, or slapping your knees on the ground, one two, one two. People at tennis lessons here and those working out at the track stretch to a similar fast cadence, boing, boing, boinging their arms, an unfamiliar rigor for my "let's do a long, easy stretch" American body.

    Zhenya moves us through the familiar poses, but not in the familiar order. And she's talking, talking, talking in Russian, and all I understand is sabaka "dog." I have to look to see if it's downward or upward facing. But it doesn't matter because I can never do a sabaka like she can. Her form, post-partem, is more beautiful than any other teacher I've ever had. She comes over and tells me to stop trying to straighten my leg so much. I'm American. I should hold my leg at the knee and leave the leg-straightening to the Russians.

    She tells us to breathe. "Do you feel a stretch here?" She asks in English, "I feel a pain in my thigh," someone says. "Yes! Isn't it great?" she says with a rare smile. She speeds up motions that are slow at home, and makes us hold poses we would, in California, slide through. A warrior balance drops into a pigeon pose. Never in the US would someone do those back to back. It would be a sacrilige. And isn't it great?

    I can't wait to go back on Tuesday. Unless I forget to go.

    My wow-can-she-write friend Erica blogged about the class here: http://bit.ly/bed8Sg

  • bid list 2010

    In alphabetical order:

    Brussels
    Bucharest
    Colombo
    Hong Kong
    Prague
    Sofia 

    Thoughts?