• from maison cent vingt deux

    Looks like we may be online from home, after four days of a crew of guys installing a very tall flag pole next to our house, then trying to configure the mac, the first one they’ve ever worked on, I’m sure. One guy laid down and took a nap at one point. I have not been feeling too celebratory because they can’t get our laptop nor our next-door-neighbor’s laptop to respond to the wi-fi signal that is going out for a quarter mile. But I guess I should cheer up: bon arrivé internet.

    There’s a little cognitive dissonance when I read about celebrity rubber ducks being auctioned, or even when we go out to dinner, then step outside into sand roads and donkeys and women in headscarves down to their knees. Oh that’s right, we’re still in Niger.

    As my first at-home at last project, I posted a batch of pictures to flickr–click on the teeny photos over there >>> and down a bit, and you will be directed and subjected to my photostream thingy. I’m living for your comments, remember.

  • Nuts softball tournament

    A very busy week it was. I don’t mind so much because it’s interesting and my time goes by rather quickly. Aside from the emotional news about my pregnant patient, I was also visited by a doctor from South Africa and trying to get my visa and cable request in for my up and coming trip to Burkina Fossa, Ouagadougou. There’s an annual artisan festival going on while I’m there and Dina wants to come with the kids. So I have to arrange the driver, time off, our hotel accomodations, and estimated cost. Once I’m there, I will be meeting my nurse and familiarizing myself with the clinics and hospitals there. I already have patients scheduled to be seen (a breast mass and a hip bursitis that needs injecting).

    This weekend is the NUTS softball tournament. When we first arrived at post, I was asked if I wanted to join the team. Not entirely opposed but completely disabled when it comes to swinging any kind of club or stick at anything, I declined. I know my limitations and people should thank me for that! I don’t know what NUTS stands for but I could guess after talking to some of these people that it could be taken literally.

    What it means for me though is that I have to be prepared for sports injuries. Last year someone broke an arm and last week in training, someone needed stitches. The teams are coming from all ovver west Africa so we were asked to help house some of them. We took on two young women from Benin. Their team decided to come Thursday night since they had to drive over 12 hours, and get the most out of their time. I wnet to pick them up at 9PM but they didn’t arrive until 1AM. Those poor girls were tired and so was I.

    Friday, we had some friends over for drinks and dinner. I got called out to the baseball field. An innocent by standard was watching the game when a fly ball came down through the trees and hit him in the eye. He had a brief loss of consciousness and his eye swelled up like an over-ripe apricot. I took him to the Gamkalley clinic (French) to make sure he had no internal bleeding into the orbit of the eye which could put pressure on the nerve and cause blindness. He was fine. It cost 4,000 CFA (~$8) and I gave him $2 to catch a taxi back home.

    The rest of the weekend was univentful. Our house guests were very nice and we took them out to the Grand Hotel for drinks and brochettes last night. They have the most wonderful view of the Niger River from the veranda there.

    It’s Columbus Day but the kids are at the French school. Pierre, our gardener is back from Burkina Fossa and the girls left early this morning. I thought I’d share the morning with Dina but I got called in to evaluate a little girls’ arm. Her brother tugged on it and made it hurt. No harm done eccept that I’m going to have to have a talk with that boy!

  • Missing that Certain Slant of Light

    When Mike and Emily were living in San Francisco they pointed out the frustrating lack of seasons in the land of fog. The seasons are subtle in San Franciso, but they exist: the light changes and there are pumpkins in the stores. In Portland, Oregon, like the east coast, autumn is in your face. Leaves FILLING the streets, the trees blazing with color, and it starts to get cold–our first year there Camille had to wear a sweater (a kid’s cashmere sweater! I had bought it used at the Town School for Boys store on Sactamento Street in San Francisco) under her Halloween costume.

    Here there is nothing, season-wise. The land that time forgot. It’s still summer. I head out the door for my little trot around the stadium at 9:15 am and say to myself, wow, it’s 90 degrees. Stefan wants to be a tiger or an elephant for Halloween, and I’m afraid any costume like that will be too hot. The trees are same, the lizards are the same. In Portland, spider webs suddenly appear, like the spiders got the memo about Halloween.

    They do have pumpkins here, they are big and green. Unlike the Leshers, Elisabeth’s parents who lived in Cameroon, we won’t get to make a calabash-jack-o-lantern that lasts 40 years.

  • Never in my life…

    For the first time in my life, I ordered an artificial Christmas tree. This is tough, coming from a man who lived in Oregon where they grow Christmas trees and every year, send the Mother of all Christmas trees to be displayed on the White House lawn. But a decorated palm tree doesn’t cut it for me. So I spent the extra money for a delux one to look as natural as possible (Colorado noble fir with a foldable metal stand). It just arrived yesterday in a box. Made in China. I’ll let you know.

    I must say that in general, our lives have been made much easier here by the invention of the internet. I’ve been buying groceries, clothes, and appliances. Granted, we don’t have internet at home (yet!), but when we do, watch out baby!

    One of the women here at work, came in this morning feeling run down and I was the first to know that she is pregnant! The line turned blue! This is her first pregnancy and for some reason, I got teary eyed when I told her. She called her husband over and they are very happy. I was trying to be informative but instead, used up an entire box of Kleenex with them. I think I was crying more than they were. I scheduled her exam and screening for another day. I’m all choked up and can hardly see strait! A Chordas gene I inherited from my uncle. Good thing I’m not an obstetrician! I keep saying to myself, "Never in my life did I think I would be doing this!"

    Last Friday, we went to the Peace Corps swearing in hosted by the Ambassador. The Peace Corps volunteers just finished their training and are about to embark on their 2 year assignments to tiny villiages deep within the interior of Niger. One gave a very touching speech in French about trying to answer a little boys’ question about why he would want to give up McDonalds hamburgers and fries to join the Peace Corps and go out there and do such a thing. He told the boy that it was to do just that; sacrifice McDonalds so that he would know exactly what that meant. I find that it’s more than that. Being able to say; "Never in my life did I think I would…" makes me realize that I am doing what I am supposed to be doing: giving meaning and purpose to my life. So I’ll continue to stay up late at night thinking about the guy I’m treating with parasites and cry when I find out you’re pregnant.

  • Bread

    Well, that is interesting that mac users can see the picture, but others cannot. I’ll leave the picture up and work out the bugs after I have my machine at home, someday. It was also great to see so many faces at once! Hi!

    Walking home from the kids school I pass by the bakery, called Delice. It’s close to us and everyone says the best bakery in town. They have great croissants, madelines that are lemon flavored, slices of chocolate-swirled tea bread and baguettes. Usually we buy some of everything. The other day I bought just two baguettes and was surprised at the price: 300 cfa. That means a baguette is 33 cents. When we first got here they had a bread I liked better than the baguettes, it was denser and a little darker. I finally remembered that it was called pain parfume and I asked about it. They told me that they are waiting for the flour. "I’m waiting too, then," I said.

    There is a small grocery store near the kids school too, they cater to the expat parents at the school. There is a good selection of wine and cheeses, a fridge full of butter and yogurt, cookies, cans and bottles of sauces, and the only place I’ve seen any version of brown and powdered sugar. Eggs are stacked on the counter, the laundry detergent is brands you’ve never seen before. They have one kind of bread. The kids love it. It’s sliced white, but not fluffy. 850 cfa so that’s like $1.70. CaSt have french toast every morning. Stefan gives me the highest compliment: it’s as good as the frozen french toast from Trader Joe’s.

  • chez nous

    House_tour_2 Can you see me now?

    Okay, the picture isn’t showing up on my end, but when I email it out, it seems fine. Judging by Jim’s comment, it is showing up. Still using the embassy computers…maybe this week we’ll get going with the wifi antennae. Can someone leave a comment and let me know if the picture is showing up?

  • Ramadan and House Repairs

    The communication around our house is pretty iffy. The adorable housekeeper Zuri and I had a conversation yesterday, where it took me five minutes to figure out that she was asking me if I knew any other Americans who might want her to work for them. She has two little boys who live with her mother in Benin, and she says her mother is asking her all the time for money. Then a guy from GSO (General Services Office) came because the smoke alarm in Stefan’s room has been chirping. It took some convincing to get him to change the battery. Then he told me he wanted to see the "feu." The fire. Hmm. I took him to the electrical panel, pretty unsure of what he wanted, thinking we were talking about the smoke alarm. The electrical panel is in the kitchen, he saw the stove and said, "Le feu!" and proceded to fix its problem: the stove wasn’t attached to anything and the pots on the stove tipped over if you opened the oven, making bowling water for spaghetti and toasting garlic bread at the same time life-threatening.

    Also we got a new mattress and box springs. I hope the War of the Fleas is now over. I said le guerre contra les puces and Zuri thought that was funny. Especially as she was on the front lines with the vacuum cleaner. Also, my dream has finally come true: when I light bulb goes out, I call GSO and they send someone over to change it.

    The gardener, Pierre, was acting as translator about the smoke alarm battery, which is funny, because he and I have a lot of absurdist conversations where everything has to be repeated twice. Obviously, my french has problems. Let’s blame it on the west african accent, shall we? Pierre has five children, "a girl, age 12, then a boy 9, a boy 7 and then the little ones, les tout petits," he says. He asked for a week off to go to Burkina, to renew his visa. I asked him today if his children live here or in Burkina. He says the daughter is here. I told him that le patron and I want to pay for his daughter’s school, which I’ve heard is about $50 a year.We are happy to have the opportunity to help educate someone in a area where the average literacy rate is 13%. Lower for girls.

    Ramadan has started, which I see as a sort of Muslim lent. They fast all day, from the first call to prayer at sunrise until the second to the last call to prayer at sunset. I feel so bad making grilled cheese sandwiches for kids at lunch and eating around Zuri, who I know must be feeling faint. She asked to work in the morning rather than the afternoons during Ramadan, because she has more energy. Even the little girls are wearing veils. Peter’s nurse is wearing her hair covered, not for fashion, but for God, she says.

    Our daytime guard is the oldest guard we’ve had, and he seems more religious than some, washing his feet or praying every time I want to go in or out it seems. I told Peter I worry about him, he didn’t have a lot of energy before, now to go all day without food or water for an older guy seems almost dangerous. Then at 7 pm (they have 12 hour shifts) he eased himself onto his bike and rode away. I took the night guard a plate of food after the sunset call to prayer. I asked Peter if spaghetti with tomato sauce is wierd for them, Peter said it’s his nurse’s favorite.I figured he must be starving and may have brought food, but if I hadn’t eaten all day, I might eat two dinners.

    And it is the Nigeriene National Soccer team that is practicing when I’m running at the stadium.

  • First day of kindergarten

    I have about a zillion pictures to post, but this is the only one that is formatted correctly that I brought with me today. So,Dscn2564  voila. He is really in love with his stuffed animals lately, they go everywhere we do. Plus, he has a hard time acting normal when he’s nervous. L’ecole La Fontaine, Niamey, Niger, September 2006

  • at the Nigerien National Stadium

    The last two days I’ve gone running at the nice stadium that was built for the 2005 Francophonie games. (The next will be in Lebonan in 2009) The first day I went no one was there except me and what looked like the national soccer team. (Jesse, can you please come up a story where I am discovered at the stadium and appear as the first white woman to play on the Nigerien soccer team?) I asked a couple people if it was okay for me to use the track. One man smiled and nodded at the track and said, "Allez." Yesterday I was doing one of my you know, strenuous, strenuous circuts around the track and an older guy in a robe called to me,

    "Madame!"

    "Oui?"

    "Are you Chinese?"

    "Uh, no."

    "Where are you from?"

    "I’m American."

    "Do you have a card?"

    He went on to explain that I need to pay $10 for a card to use the stadium. Which is fine, the first day I’d looked all over for someone to tell me. I assured him that I am happy to pay, but that I didn’t bring any money with me today. He said, no problem, pay next time.

    Peter’s nurse Amina tells me that is totally bogus, the stadium is free, maybe 50 cfa (10 cents) at the door if there is anyone even there. The guy did look pretty official with a badge and everything, and I don’t mind making a donation, the stadium is pretty nice, and I have the track to myself. I wonder how much the card would be if I were Chinese.

    Christmas card photo opportunity! We are going to see the herd of wild giraffes on Sunday.