place2place

  • is it or isn’t it?

    Saturday basil

    Saturday lily2

    Saturday rugs

    Saturday tia peltz

    Headed out in the gorgeous sunshine to run errands, stopped by the Peasant Musuem flea market–I bet you can't wait to get an angel icon from me! In a stack of paintings I found this drawing by Tia Peltz. She did a lot of ink on paper and I took the frame apart to make sure it wasn't just a xerox copy. This website has a few similar for sale, framed the same. Maybe someone else draws and signs Tia Peltz's name? She died in '99 and recently Cotrocen Palace hosted an solo exhibition. I only know about her because of the show we did at the Embassy about women Jewish artists. Romanians love her because she illustrated many of the childrens books they grew up with.

    This is her line quality and her subject matter–maybe the guy at the flea market will really start cranking them out now that he found an easy mark. He wanted 150 RON, pointing out that the frame was very clean and nice, and that there is a numbered sticker on the back, and you know how important that is. (?) I said 50, and we agreed on 100. Tia Peltz or not, I like it, it reminds me a little of Camille, and it didn't cost a lot. There was an old angel painting with a really pretty blue background that cost more than the Tia Peltz. But you know how Peter feels about religious art.

  • sweet saturday

    House piano player
    House angel

    House with dogs

    House errand runners

    House new painting

    House wildflowers ladybug
    Peter doesn't like my penchant for religious art, but we both like this new little Romanian guardian angel icon because her skirt reminds us of piano keys. I made the huge commitment of hanging it, right by the piano, I love it. We are dog-sitting hilarious dauchshund Zoe, running errands, doing wildflower research and starting a new painting. Mmmmm, Saturday.

  • high school drama

    Photo-2When we put together our bid list last time, we put Bucharest fairly high. I made an appointment with the guy from the Office of Overseas Schools and he assured me that all the posts we were looking at had fine schools: Hong Kong is a no-brainer, but Sofia, Brussels, Colombo and Bucharest were all fine as well.

    At the time of doing our research, Bucharest had a 15% hardship differential and we thought it would be perfect, at the end of our tour, we would extend for a year. Stefan would finish 8th grade and be ready to start high school when we moved and Camille would finish high school.

    Then, from the summer of 2010, when we were researching posts, to 2011, when we got here, the differential went down to 5%. We were concerned about getting an extension to stay for Camille's last year, but we were reassured that others had gotten a "compassionate" extension with a rising 12th grader and we had two years before we could really worry about it. And maybe the post diff would go back up.

    The post differential was re-evaluated while we were here, and it did go up–to 10%. Not the magic 15% we needed for an easy extension. But I wasn't too worried. Two other families, who arrived the year before we did, when the differential was still 15%, asked for extensions and got them–one specifically so their daughter could stay for 12th grade.

    So we find ourselves in our second year and the time has come to ask for an extension. When we started the process, we were referred to some special services, because they said that if we had psycho-medical reasons, the argument to stay would be stronger.

    We spent $10K (which will be reimbursed, but it hasn't happened yet) on a trip to London and a week's worth of evaluations for Camille. She's had such a hard time in math, which has also affected science. The testing helped us figure out that it's not because she's not smart, (quite the opposite) but rather that she's had gaps. Typical of a foreign service kid, she's moved so much–after 3rd grade, 5th grade and 8th grade–and now in 10th grade, the missing pieces make the big picture in math difficult.

    We have gotten tutors for her off and on, and they've boosted her though some rough patches, but none have helped her improve her overall, long term skills in math.

    The findings in London recommended that the best thing for Camille would be to stay in one spot for the last two years of school. Besides, the two-year IB program is seamless and starting the program in 11th grade in one school doesn't mean you can easily finish in 12th grade in another. After the testing was over, we reported our findings to the center that had recommended the testing.

    They informed us that pretty much while we were getting the testing, the policy had changed and they no longer make recommendations for extensions.

    The new system requires that Peter write directly to the Director General of the State Department and ask to stay one more year. Peter wrote and she said no, it would set a bad precedent. (Supporting families is terrible, I guess.) The DG asked why we hadn't curtailed immediately when we found out the differential had gone down. This had never occurred to us. So I guess one of the reasons I'm writing this is to warn people who are showing up at 5% differential posts, thinking they will get an extension with a rising 11th grader their last year. Maybe you will, but even with Ambassador, DCM, Management and Med support, we did not.

    We considered having Peter do an AIP/war zone post– I could stay with the kids here that year, but they've all been spoken for in his position.

    So now, with one week of school to go, we are trying to figure out what do with Camille who doesn't want to start the IB program at AISB and finish at our future mystery post.

    We went and looked at two boarding schools. One wouldn't really work for Camille and the other will cost a zillion dollars–it's far more than the away-from-post allowance. Do I need to remind you that Peter works for the federal government? Just going and LOOKING at boarding schools costs a fortune.

    So. Our choices:

    a. Camille stays at a school she doesn't like that has not supported her and she transfers after 11th grade and does the last half of a two-year program that may not exist who-knows-where.

    b. She goes to a wonderful, but wildly expensive boarding school that won't let her in the IB program because her math placement test was so dismal. And we stress about money for the next two years. (Interesting that AISB, the school here, will let her into the IB program regardless of her poor math performance.)

    c. We keep searching for another just as good, but less expensive school, with most deadlines long past.

    Heavy, heavy sigh. I feel like I've failed my kid.

  • interesting path



    Leysin snail

    Leysin path

    I don't know if it's because it's where I "lived" overseas for the first time, or because I got to teach fabulous students with a bunch of my friends there for a summer– but for me, the town of Leysin, Switzerland exudes a powerful, benign energy. The light, the air and the water seem scrubbed clean by the snow-covered mountains and high altitude. No wonder people thought they could be cured of incurable diseases here, the place itself is intoxicating. In 1994, on my last day there, I went running on one of the many paths that wind around the town and cried real tears about leaving.

    Camille has decided that she would like to go to boarding school. We are in the process of doing searches and making visits. We visited one school near London that wasn't quite perfect. I've never forgotten the Leysin American School, sister school to the one where I taught, and its great reputation. Every source I could currently contact praised the school.

    Leysin

    So, this last week, I found myself being hauled up the mountain by the same cog-wheel train that was quaint and old-fashioned nearly 20 years ago.

    As we rolled our suitcases out of the Leysin Feyday train station, looking for where we were staying, a stunning turn-of-the century building sparkled over the town. "Is that the school?" asked Camille. I stopped and looked up at it, massively wide and cupola-d and lit up like something from the Great Gatsby. "No, that must be a resort." I said.

    With the help of a series of strangers, we found our funny little guest house with a big sign at the front door telling us in all caps to take off our shoes.

    A Russian family built the house around the turn of the century hoping Leysin's air and light would "cure" the daughter's TB. When not visiting the school, Camille and I lounged around in the sunroom, in the clouds, like Russian invalid princesses ourselves.

    Leysin weather

    I loved it that the house had a kitchen we could use–we didn't eat out at all except for one afternoon when we wandered down to the Croissanterie, one of the other things, like the train and the ancient Nicca camera shop, that haven't changed.

    Leysin kitchen

    Leysin kitchen2

    Up the mountain, that incredible "resort" turned out to be the Leysin American School's new IB campus. Camille found the school full of potential for a great social and academic life. The school's vibe suited Camille, especially the $1 million art studio.  We will apply and see what happens.

    Leysin art studio

    LAS_art_center_balcony

    This photo from their own website: the view from the LAS art studio balcony.

    The grocery store is still devoted to yogurt and chocolate. The mountains are still there too. Why am I surprised?


    Leysin with daffodil

    Leysin steps

    Applying for boarding schools has taken us down an interesting path. I didn't expect it to be one I loved running on almost 20 years ago.

  • visiting vermeer

    Because of some testing Camille and I find ourselves in London. One afternoon we visited the National Gallery. Oh my god the drapery. And the exteme pleasure of seeing not one but two Vermeers.

    Photo-11

    Drapery for the blog

    I use to say the V&A was my favorite museum, but now I've changed my mind. The V&A still holds the prize as Mother of All Museums, but I swoon more at the National Gallery.

  • second semester


    Me painting in the studioPhoto-2

    The guard at the door of the art building always wants to know why I'm coming in the building and yesterday when I said, "Sunt student aici." (I'm a student here) she said, "Domnavostra?" (You?! Only formal, like Vous?!) "Da, eo." "Yes, me." I said happily, and maybe grammatically incorrectly, and then I ascended the three flights of stairs with a key on a chain around my neck for the painting studio.

  • i thought everything on tv was true!

    Last night Stefan and I watched an TV episode of White Collar–actually we watched four episodes, because we are sort of obsessed like that–one particular episode involved a State Department family. The son had committed a crime and was being held in prison in Burma. In a video clip from prison, he was spelling a message using secret hand signals.

    One of the characters said, "In case of danger, diplomats' kids are trained to use hand signals."

    I looked at Stefan and we laughed. "In case of danger, have you been trained to use hand signals?" I asked him. He pounded his heart twice and flashed a peace sign–the peace out gesture.

    "Okay, what's that one gonna mean?" I asked.

    "I'm in trouble! Come and freakin' get me!" said Stef.

    Stef
    Diplomat's kid flashing the well known "My-mom-brought-me-all-the-way-to-Romania-and-then-she-took-my-picture-by-a-rock" secret signal.

  • at least i’ve got my friends, friends, friends, friends got my friends friends friends

    In Moscow we heard the radio in cabs and blaring over the loud speaker from the skating rink out our bedroom window–Mageec eeeeeef eeeeeem–but I didn't hear the same songs enough that any became familiar.

    Like cigarette smoke, Romanian pop music constantly wafts through the air. And like the cigarette smoke, I've gotten use to it and sort of enjoy my new addiction.

    Top 40 radio, or more like Top 10-at-Most radio, accompanies us constantly: in the car, at the grocery store, at the dentist, and playing on my co-worker's computer as I walk past her office. On the school bus the kids are exposed to second-hand songs. Our hatred of Broken Angel unifies us.

    O stea They don't play this song O Stea enough, (click the gray bar to hear! it's good!) even though it's number 8 this week. During Ceausescu times songs had to be in Romanian, so as a backlash Romanian songs are sometimes in English. I like my Romanian pop in Romanian.

    Apa (feat Cabron) If I make a Bucharest video this number-one-song-this-week will be the score, since I can picture the Arc de Triumf, Herstreau Park, people making left hand turns from the right lane and Bucharest going by frame by frame. For a while these posters of the singer plastered Bucharest. Guess we missed hearing Apa live.

    LOREDANA-poster-719x1024

    A friend who recently moved to Moscow really misses hearing the band Smiley on the radio. When we aren't living in Romania I will miss the soundtrack of Romanian pop hanging in my hair and clinging to my clothes.

    As much as Moscow was about snow and ice rinks, and Niger was about going to see the giraffes, these songs are about parking on the sidewalk, buying freshly baked pretzels after class on Piata Amzei, the smell of turpentine, having an 11 and 15 year old, and life in Bucharest right now. Back then.

    KissFM is here, if you want to hear what it sounds like to live here or in case it's been more than five minutes since you've heard Casablanca.

  • bucharestmas

    Bucharest went full on this year with the Christmas lights.
    Everywhere you turn, too-much-of-good-thing-is-a-good-thing sparkles, flashes, drips and runs along along a wire changing colors. Stars, boxes, balls of strings of lights, angel wings, scissors? maybe they are lollypops? garlands and my absolute favorite, along Aviatorilor for what  seems like miles, illuminated umbrella trees.
    Photo-18
    Photo-16

    Photo-20

    Photo-23
    The Bu's most-loved bookstore's creaky wooden floors, window seats and book-lined stair cases remind me of Powells in Portland (sans the used-book option, sad face) complete with a cozy cafe in the cave serving pages and pages of different kinds of tea in adorable teapots. What the heck took me so long to get to the the extra gezellig Carturesti? 

    Photo-17

  • christmas wishes

    Photo-9
    Photo-8

    Photo-11
    Peter's been in the garage with ten pounds of green coffee beans for the last 24 hours. We packaged up the freshly roasted coffee and delivered it to the neighbors tonight. Miss our friends and family back home, but oh how I love not traveling during the holidays. I'm trying to get Stefan to play his Christmas songs on piano for me, but he won't. Santa just took a u-turn, says Serge. 

    I'm trying to knit a bonnet by tomorrow. Can it be done? By me?