Can I blame the beautiful weather on the Secretary of State's visit? They seed the clouds here with cement dust–that's heathy right?–and the clouds are dispersed for important events. Monday it rained sideways non-stop. Then Tuesday and Wednesday, the two days she was here, were gorgeous.
Author: place2place
-
suffering under soviet dictatorship, not allowed to post pictures
At the Ambassador's residence, my friends and I sat in the second row at the Secretary of State's Meet and Greet. Then we were told she would be shaking hands with the people in the front row, so we moved up, right next the seats that said "reserved." Out the beautifully arched doorway we saw her car pull up and she got out right at the door. At the podium, the Ambassador is a good warm up act. Then Madame Secretary gave a lovely and appreciative speech about how the Embassy community is an example of Russians and Americans working together, a very nice message. Don't you love it when she plays acoustic?A minute into her speech, the lens cap of my camera dropped to the hardwood floor and rolled in the largest circuit a lens cap has ever made through a state dining room. Time stood still as it noisily wheeled past the podium inches from Hillary Clinton's black suede heels. She could have stopped it by stepping on it, but she ignored it with a professional focus. The official photographer watched it, horrified that might be his. I pointed at myself, and mouthed to him, "It's mine." It's still rolling mind you. It rolled so long, my friend had time to lean in and say, "It's going to roll back to you." And it did. Someone told me, secret service drew their guns, but held fire.My friends and I were a little thrown because after her speech we were the first she greeted. I got to shake her hand and I think it was brilliant, clever and original what I said to her. I said, "Hello." She's so gracious she didn't mention the lens cap. -
health unit blood drive
Peter's Med Unit had a blood drive and was on Russian TV. But the lead man was on the road! Peter totally would have been a star if he'd been in town for an interview–intead of waiting around to accompany the Secretary of State in her motorcade in Kazan. I was part of the media frenzy and cracked up when they poked the Ambassador in the arm and he said, "I think this is what they call the money shot." -
who me?
My blogger friend Amanda the Expatress in the news. Please don't make me want a Kindle. I need to buy plane tickets for Chirstmas in California and um, more scarves it looks like. http://moscownews.ru/business/20091012/55390163.html
Isn't it enough that we got to go to a screening of a movie and got to meet two Academy award-nominated film-makers yesterday? And that Peter is riding–flags flying–in the motorcade in Kazan this week? Tomorrow Madame Secretary is having a Meet and Greet. "I really like your music," I guess I'll tell her? Oh wait, wrong Meet and Greet.
-
moscow honeyfest
This is my article I wrote for the Embassy newsletter about the honey festival.
Sore throat? Stomach problem? Blood problems? You must not be eating enough of the right kind of honey. The honey sellers at the 22nd Annual All-Russia Honey Festival have suggestions for just about every ailment that you may have. They believe that certain types of honey, depending on what type of pollen the bees gathered, have properties to treat just about every condition.
For ages honey has been used in Russia as a form of homeopathy– the nutrients of wild herbs and flowers rub off on bees, and eventually find their way into the honey. Powerful medicine taken in a cup of tea, or preferably right off the spoon, as heat may interfere with some of honey’s medicinal benefits. Which is another reason to buy honey fresh from the farm, not commercially pasteurized and packaged.
At the fair, hundreds of sellers from across Russia offer every kind of honey and honey product that may or may not cure your problems. More than one seller told us that if it doesn’t taste good to you, it’s not the homeopathic remedy your body needs. Sunflower, raspberry flower, clover, buckwheat, acacia, linden, you can taste it all for free and decide which is the most therapeutic for you. Many of the honeys are labeled with their healing properties.
Where to start? There are so many sellers. The incredible range of just the colors of honey is amazing. Which appeals to you? The clearest, the whitest, the blackest the most golden, the seller with the best smile or most hilarious apron? Many stands boast awards, and the honey at this fair has been inspected for purity. Cheery and talkative bee-keepers overwhelm with thousands of honeys, honey comb, bee pollen, and beeswax candles–every sort of honey product is available. (Crushed dead bees, anyone?)
Most stands are decorated with pictures of the farm and the acres of wild flowers where the honey was harvested by the small-scale artisan bee-keepers themselves. One woman we spoke with had driven 24 hours from Central Russia with her truck full of honey. Father and son bee-keepers were eager to learn the names of the flowers in English, and explain the quality of their honeys using their newly-acquired words.
One big fan of honey is Moscow Mayor Lushkov, who himself is bee-keeper, he may be the only mayor in the world who holds a patent for a cold-climate beehive. The festival venue has been changed from its place of years past, Kolomenskoye to Tsaritsino, another of the mayor’s projects. The festival flourishes in part because of his support.
The festival is held by the Russian Union of Apiarists, whose main goal is to increase the number of small-scale beekeepers. Honey production has doubled in Russia in the last twenty years, but the bee-keepers aren’t keeping up with demand. Before 1917, bee-keepers had enough honey to export, but now supply falls short. Another goal of the Union is to teach the beekeepers business know-how. The Union hopes that by teaching business skills like marketing, increased distribution will lead to increased production.
None of the stands were Sue-Bee-Burt’s Bees-commercial in any way. From the bee-keeper with a mouth full of gold teeth to the apiarist who boasted her two degrees in psychology, “but I’m still wearing this silly hat,” each bee-keeper was eager to talk shop about his or her farm, bees and honey, quoting the latest studies from “Bee Plus” magazine.
The Russian cultural connection to the power of honey is evident in the warmth and enthusiasm of these bee-keepers. Part folk medicine and herbal remedy, part science, honey has proven antibacterial and antiseptic properties. Single flower honeys—whether from nettle, orange blossom or sunflower–have much more nutrition and character than the processed blended honey found on the grocery store shelves. Time spent walking around talking to friendly Russians representing the country from China to Siberia has it’s own therapeutic affects as well.
-
tsaritsino
The metro stop shares a name with the Tsaritsino Palace, Catherine the Great's never-finished-left-to-decay-famously-vandalized dacha. Catherine was never happy with the palace-away-from-the-palace and dismissed her architect before the place was ever finished. Tsaritsino has been a romantic ruin since 1775. The structures on which alpinists used to practice rock climbing have been restored, or rather finished to the specifications of Moscow's current Mayor. 150 rubles, ($3.50) lets you wander the halls, which I have to do next time I'm there. I just saw the building on our way to the honey festival, which was on the grounds. Thanks for letting use your yard, Catherine. -
tonight in moscow
Remember when I rode on the plane to Moscow with the band members of Papa Roach and talked to them and they were really nice? This billboard is right by our house and every time I walk by I obnoxiously point out they are my best friends. The show is tonight, what are we doing sitting around here?
-
old skool style old school
Tanya, is not only a relative, but also one of my best friends. She left the then-Soviet Union half-way through her senior year because her parents defected. She hasn't been back since. Buildings whisper secrets and shout greetings, "My dad lived here as a little boy until his father was taken away." "My best friend lived in this building!" She's been visiting with her relatives and renewing her childhood friendship with the Three Bears painting at the Tretrikov Gallery. Everything is at once familiar and unfamiliar, the time traveler's life.
I am thrilled to have her here in Moscow. And not just because she can read menus and metro stops for me. I've been crazed with work, and haven't been able to get away much, but yesterday she wanted to find the apartment she grew up in. I figured that might be the moment of a lifetime so I took off with her.We wandered past the ring road, and suddenly, after not really recognizing anything in the neighborhood where we live, Tanya seemed to know where she was. She found her apartment where she lived with her parents and grandmother. She found the window her dog almost fell out of.Then silently she walked around the back of the building, down a street, through a corridor, down an alley to a totally hidden building where she had taken ice-skating and ballet lessons–choreography, she corrects–for years. It was obviously a kid's hang out, I can tell by the soda bottles and candy wrappers in the trash. We weren't sure if we could go in , but what's the worst that can happen? They don't let us in?Inside, it's clearly still a rec center. Tanya explained to the lady guard at the desk that she had skated here as a child. In the nice weather, there are tennis courts, in the winter they flood the tennis courts to make the ice rink where Tanya skated. We sat and watched kids get ballet-with-a-racket Russian tennis lessons. We went and hung out at the iron gate where parents would peek through to watch Tanya's lessons. Tanya once got her tongue stuck on the gate and had to have someone pour water over her mouth to unstick it.Then she wound her way through the streets to her school. We tried to get in the building, but this time the guard gave us the typical Russian "It's impossible," shake of her head and wouldn't let us in. Then Tanya flashed her "guest of the embassy" badge and the guard softened and went and got the principal, who kindly showed us in.
Tanya demonstrated how she and her little girlfriends walked arm in arm at recess in a circle, talking, contributing to the worn path in the parquet floor. Her biology classroom is unchanged. The cafeteria, where she ate lunch every day from first grade to that last half of high school, is exactly the same. The stove looks like it's been cooking soup since long before Tanya got there. It can and has survived any number of cultural revolutions. Tanya left the Soviet Union and wasn't allowed to write letters or contact any of the people she walked the halls with arm in arm for her entire childhood. She is time traveling, I'm along for the ride. -
it took 862 years to look this good
The ring road was closed to cars today–walking home after a latte at the French bakery today was such a pleasure with no whizzing traffic. Moscow's celebrated its birthday hard–here, let me pour you a shot of vodka, everyone else seems to have had one–and the amount of sparkle defies description.
-
kremlin palace
This last one is the view from the Kremlin, flags along the bridge for Moscow's birthday weekend. That building you see in the far distance is Moscow State University, it's super far away, but huge. If you don't get tired walking the 20 miles of halls, maybe the five miles around the base will do it.It's beautiful here in Moscow, we are having Marin County weather, brought by our friends visiting from Marin County. Adorble Torri is hitting the bottle here pretty hard, luckily it's yogurt.